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The harassed mother said “go fly a kite” to an
over-energetic son who needed to be kept occupied during the
holidays. And the little boy happily picked up his ‘guddi’
and ran out into the field.
That
of course, was many years ago. Kite flying has come a long way since
then with the invention of motorized and even fiberglass kites –
to compete with kite-paper, which had been universally accepted as
the only material that could fly! However, the tradition of kite
flying in India has not changed. Be it at Basant or Makar Sankranti,
people of all ages go out into the open to try their luck with their
patangs. In towns and cities where fields are difficult to come by,
terraces and rooftops are often used.
In
Gujarat, Makar Sankranti is kite-flying day. Traditionally celebrated
on the 13th or 14th of January, it is a holiday when every family can
be ‘met’ outdoors ‘cutting’ each other’s
kites. Myriads of hues, shapes and sizes decorate the blue skies
from dawn to dusk during this unique festival. The cool breeze gives
the much-needed push to these kites whose only hazards are the birds
and now, may be, a low-flying glider or helicopter.
Last
year, a new festival was born in India. Called the International
Kite Festival, this event sought to take kite flying to the tourist
by inviting participants from all over the world to competitions and
displays of kites and kite-flying skills. A special Patang Nagar was
created for the three-day festival and the ‘city of kites’
opened its doors to bazaars displaying hundreds of thousands of kites
and ‘reels’ of infinite variety. Gifted craftsmen
demonstrated age-old kite-making skills and how to prepare the thread
used for kite flying. For those who needed food for sustenance,
dishes such as surati jaman, udhiyu, kathiawadi
bhanu and others, typical of Gujarat, were served. Garba a
famous dance was also performed. The musicians and dancers regaled
the winners of competitions and uplifted the spirits of those who had
lost.
January
13 was the day of the inauguration of the first International Kite
Festival. It was well worth my while to get to Patang Nagar a little
ahead of time to watch the scenes of preparation for the grand event.
Little red paper-kites vied with those of the masters from Japan,
USA, UK and other ‘advanced’ countries. As participants
tied threads to their ‘toys’, excited spectators watched
shapes such as ‘eagles’ and ‘snakes’ soar into
the skies. Cloth, paper, fiberglass et al, are now being used to
make this flying attraction. The air of festivity at a Patang
festival is infectious and even those who have never handled this
complicated sport are swept into the stream with those who would be
champion kite-fliers.
Gujarat
Tourism presented Indian Fighter kites to contestants on January 14
and expert kite-fliers accompanied novices flying these fighters.
Come nigh and the illuminated kites known as tukals soared into the
sky to compete with the stars. This was on the Makar Sankranti day.
As
a prelude to the festival, regional kite-flying contests were
organized by various States and the winners participated in the kite
contest on January 15. Special prizes were awarded to those who had
mastered the art of kite-flying. Other were welcomed to
demonstrations and lectures to improve their mastery of the art. The
success of the first International Kite Festival has encouraged the
Ministry of Tourism and the Tourism Corporation of Gujarat to turn
this into an annual event. So make you plans to be in Patang Nagar
between the 13th and 15th of January every
year.
One of
the sidelights of the festival is the Patang Bazaar, which is open 24
hours a day in the heart of Ahmedabad during Makar Sankranti week. A
visit to this bazaar in the middle of the nigh proves beyond all
doubt that the entire population of the city is so obsessed with
patangs that they could crowd the streets and buy their stocks among
much haggling and merry-making through the night. It is a night
bazaar no one should ever miss.
Go to
Ahmedabad with an empty suitcase and your pocket full of money. No
other place offers a variety of handicrafts and handlooms in such
delightful combinations as Gujarat. To make your Ahmedabad holiday a
complete one, visit the Calico Museum, the Kite Museum and the
Vaishala restaurant, which represents a complete village in itself.
Pay
homage to the Mahatma. The Sabarmati Ashram in Ahmedabad is a place
of pilgrimage and is maintained as a Museum and shrine to the Father
of the Nation. On the banks of the river Sabarmati and yet in the
heart of city, this Ashram is engulfed in an atmosphere of peace and
tranquility. Every evening, the various monuments light up in a
sound – and – light show, which gives to you, in a
nutshell, the life and times of Mahatma Gandhi – in Gujarati,
English and Hindi.
I
spent two days in Ahmedabad. Two days are too short. Visit the city
for at least three to four days and plan on a week to ten days if you
are interested in excursions to Modhera, a temple dedicated to the
Sun God; Patan and Palitana with its Jain temples; or Lothal with its
archaeological ruins. If you cannot plan a winter trip to Gujarat,
go this summer. It is among the best holidays in India.
Five days in Ahmedabad
Start
any tour of Gujarat from Ahmedabad. It is a city full of colour. A
city, which in its ethnic glory, houses some unique museums and
monuments, shrines and parks.
Day
one
Begin
your tour with a visit to the Calico museum housed in an ancient and
sprawling Sarabhai Mansion. A guide accompanies you from the
reception and at the main door you pay homage to the weavers of a
bygone era by taking off your shoes. As you open the door, strains
of Indian instrumental classical music greet you. Cool clean marble
floors invite you into this sanctum of cloth creations. The light is
focused to highlight and yet preserve the design. There is a hushed
silence as you wander from one ‘art-object’ to another,
taking in the intricate weaves, embroideries and innovations. Some
‘pieces’ have taken the craftsmen years and years to make.
You come out of the Museum with much greater respect for the great
artists who work with fabric and a desire to see it all again. (Half
a day).
After
the Calico-textile experience spend the afternoon browsing through
Gujarat’s exquisite handloom and handicrafts at the Gujarat
emporium. Be it shawls, slippers, silks, cottons or woodcarving and
beadwork, they have it all. If you are lucky, you may even see
paintings and murals at roadside art shows. Visit ‘Bandhej’
and other boutiques to get a good idea of what is available. Shop
carefully or the colors of Gujarat will have you ‘broke’ in
just one day. (Half a day).
Dine
at the new revolving restaurant ‘Patang’ which gives you a
birds’ eye-view of the bright lights of Ahmedabad.
Day
two
Spends
the morning going back into history. Visit the Siddi Sayyid Masjid,
a 500-year – old mosque, famous for its superbly latticed
windows carved in single stone panels. Just gaze at the fine
tendrils carved, unbelievable, in stone. The mosque is also an
architectural marvel. It has four minarets. Gently push one and all
the others shake in unison.
Do a
quick round of Rani Sipri’s mosque, the Jama Masjid and Sarkhej
Rauza – all exquisite examples of the synthesis of Hindu and
Islamic architectural styles.
Then
on to the Hatheesingh temple in white carved marble built in 1848 and
dedicated to the 15th Jain apostle, Dharamnath. All the
Jain temples in Ahmedabad exhibit samples of the finest wood and
marble carving in Gujarat. (Half a day).
In the
afternoon prepare for the gala evening ahead and discover a precious
collection of objects of folk art and folk culture of Gujarat at the
folk art museum. (One hour).
Spend
the evening really getting a taste of Gujarat at Vishala, a miniature
‘Village’ complete with folk dances, craftsmen, village
shops, a utensil museum and an open-air restaurant that serves
Gujarati vegetarian snacks and meals. Vishala is an ‘experience’
that needs to be savored bit by bit. Start with some cultural shows,
the jugglers and magicians. Then move on to the village charpoys
(cots) and order your authentic Gujarati meal. While you wait for
your dishes to be cooked se the Utensil Museum. It’s an
eye-opener. From nutcrackers to pots that could have housed
Alibaba’s ‘thieves’, in wood, brass and alloys.
Back
to the charpoys and the hot meal in donas, that you collect
from the counter. Its like nothing you could have tasted before –
yet its exotic in its own way.
After
you have had your fill, visit the village shop and pick up the
choicest of handicrafts, shawls and sarees or other textiles. I
bought a ‘Ganapati’ made of little beads, which never fails
to catch the eye of my guests. Stay on for more music and more fun
for you can never have surfeit of it – till Vishala bids you
good nigh. (3 hours).
Day
three
From
the ancient to the modern. Visit the National Institute of Design,
India’s premier design institute and see the marvels of the
finest mix of Indian and global forms and ideas. This is a Le
Corbusier creation. So also the Indian Institute of Management. (2
hours).
In the afternoon wander through Ahmedabad’s
bazaars. They are a glorious mix of modern and ethnic in their
wares. Mill clothes or mirrored Kutch embroidery, antique
furniture, silver jewellery and beadwork; the list goes on till your
cases are full.
The
third evening is reserved for the Sabarmati Ashram, where the Father
of the Nation, Mahatma Gandhi, once lived. Go early and wander
through its walks and into his cottage and those of his associates.
See the gallery of portraits and the museum and buy a few books
preaching the philosophy of non-violence. Then pick your spot in the
peaceful ambience of the ashram by the river Sabarmati and just relax
till the son-et-lumiere begins at 7 p.m. The hour-long show is
moving and patriotic and gives you a new insight into the life and
times of the Mahatma. (3 hours).
Day
four and five
Two
days in Ahmedabad must be devoted to the Kite-Festival. There you
will see Gujarat at its festive and cultural best. In case you
cannot visit during January, spend these two days taking excursions
to Lothal and its excavations, Modhera and its sun temple and Patan
with glorious silks!
VISITING
AHMEDABAD
GETTING
THERE
By
Air
Daily
Indian Airlines flights connect Ahmedabad with Delhi, Bombay, Jaipur
and Jodhpur. There is a thrice-weekly flight from Madras and
Bangalore.
By
Rail
The
Delhi – Ahmedabad Express takes around 24 hours by train though
express trains take about 17 to 18 hours. Daily trains connect
Ahmedabad with Bombay, which is a 9 to 15 hours run.
By
Road
Ahmedabad
is an 11-hour journey by road from Bombay and a six-hour journey from
Udaipur. Several buses connect Ahmedabad with neighboring states.
LOCAL
TRANSPORT
Taxis
and auto rickshaws are the main modes of transport though the traffic
in Ahmedabad is chaotic.
SHOPPING
Gujarat
is famous for its textiles embroidery, mirror work and tie and dye
materials. Patola saris are made in Patan. Surat – famous for
its zari embroidery work. Antiques and wooden carvings, window
frames, shutters or doorways. Gujarati handicrafts re available at
Handloom House and Gujarati both located on Ashram Road.
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