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From traditional veil to the fashionable scarf the
dupatta has come a long way. The sheer magic of this attractive
accessory gives that perfect finishing touch to Indian dresses and
western styles.
The orhni or odhani
literally means a covering. A diaphanous veil, it is used as a
covering for the brest, back, shoulders and head. The orhni is simply
a length of cloth-printed, embroidered or plain, measuring two and a
half to three down the back or wrapped around the shoulder. There are
various modes of wearing the unsown orhni which is now more popularly
known as the dupatta. When not draped over the head in the
traditional style, it is usually worn with the middle portion of the
dupatta resting on the chest like a garland with both ends thrown
over each respective shoulder. There are various modes of wearing the
unsewn orhni which is now more popularly known as the dupatta. When
not draped over the head in the traditional style, it is usually worn
with the middle portion of the dupatta resting on the chest like a
garland with both ends thrown over each respective shoulders. When
not draped over the head in the traditional style, it is usually worn
with the middle portion of the dupatta resting on the chest like a
ragland with both ends thrown over each respective shoulder. When the
dupatta resting is worn along with the salwar-kameez it is
casually allowed to flow down the front and back, pinned in neat
folds over just one shoulder, sometimes the two inner ends are
knotted together over the other shoulder to form a cowl-like pattern,
otherwise it generally drapes down the front and back. Both ends are
also allowed to hang down the front, covering both breasts or one end
circles the neck and is thrown back over the same shoulder.
These variations in
styles are attempted only with the salwar-kameez. When worn with the
ghagra choli, one end of the orhni finds a tucking hold at the
waistband of the ghagra (long-skirt). It circuls round and ends in
the front in graceful folds. The end is taken over the breast to flow
down the shoulder or taken over the head to rest across the other
shoulder. The Rajasthani women place the center of the dupatta on
their head and the two outward flowing ends are brought in under the
arm and tucked into the neck (blouse). This dupatta worn over a low
skirt is called the half sari in the south of India, and is known as
the chaddar in Assam. The orhni with its increased length,coveraging
now he head, shoulders, brests, and a large portion o the ghagra,
reducing it to the petty position of an unglamorous petticoat. The
complete invasion of the lower garment by the upper garment was
effectively undermined by the sheer texture of the orhni whose super
fine quality, be it cotton, silk or chiffon, gave tantalizing
glimpses of the garment worn under it adding to its allure and
beauty. But it is said that the orhni slowly developed in length to
envelop the entire petticoat and slowly in the course then the girl
child floats around in only a ghaghra and choli.
It’s not really
clear when our ancestors grew aware of their own modesty.
Archaeological evidences of Mohenjadaro and Harappan civilization
show no signs of the upper garment. The Vedic Indian, though seems to
have worn three garments-an under-garment (nivil), a garment
(vasas), and an overgarment (adhivasa) which was presumably a
mantle-the dupatta or chaddar of modern times. The upper part of the
body of both men and women was covered by the adivasa-a long and
ample scarf of light texture.
As a fashion garment it
is an attractive accessory that looks graceful and breaks the
monotony of the dress. A plain silken or cotton salwar kameez
ensemble can look simple an elegant when worn with a heavily
embroidered or sequined dupatta decorated with a beautiful border.
Just a change of dupatta or the manner in which it is drape adds new
dimensions to the outfit.
Round the neck, it is
worn with jeans, sometimes improvising as a sarong or as a turban or
a sash the dupatta lends itself to imaginative dressing.
Various known as the
dupatta, orhni, chaddar-this headscarf or shoulder-scarf is also
called the chunari in Gujarat. Chunari is the term used for the
famous tie and dye work of Gujarat and Rajasthan.
Rajasthani dupattas with
tie and dye strips in colourful contrast are known as laharia.
Laharia means one that ripples in the wind. This refers not just to
the dupatta that flutters but also the bold stripes on it that are
formed like ripples.
In Himachal it is used as
a headscarf knotted at the back of the head and is called dhathu.
Shopping centers in Delhi
and Bombay have shops that specialize in the selling of the varies
ranges of the dupatta. The latest in the market are the crinkled
tissues, gold block-prints known as khadi-work in cottons, tinseled
work on chiffons an heavy silken brocades and dupattas in tanchoi,
organzas and tissues.
Simple chiffons and
printed cottons are priced at a reasonable Rs.60/- to Rs.80/- moving
upwards, depending on the embroidery or other work done on it. The
broacade and bridal dupattas sell for Rs.500/- and above.
The Central Cottage
Industries Corporation of India Ltd., which has outlets in all
leading cities in India, stock dupattas from the different states of
India.
The Tangails, Kanthas and
Baluchars from Bengal range from Rs.700/- to Rs.200/-
The laharia and bandhini
tie and dye from Gujarat and Rajasthan in cotton and silks range from
Rs.100/- to Rs.500/-. Benares cut-work with zari and embroidered tili
(sequined) work from U.P. ranges from Rs.500/- onwards.
Tussar silk with ikat
border from Orissa for Rs.200/- to Rs.250/- Chanderi and Maheshwari
from M.P. range from Rs.250/- to Rs.500/-.
Mangalagiri superfine
cotton with zari border from Andhra Pradesh for Rs.200/-
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