Accessories as a concept ahs been borrowed by India from the west.
Over the last two decades the demand for high quality designer
accessories has resulted in a large number of manufacturers flooding
the market with a variety of items. A colourful range of shoes, bags,
ties, belts and watch-straps are available in India and are being
exported to the west.
Accessories are an
entirely modern and totally borrowed concept in Indian. An idea that
the British Empire could well take credit for introducing. Although
jewellery had been imaginatively fashioned to make cummerbunds
(waist-belts) in silver and gold and occasionally decorative pearl
and gem encrusted batwas (purses), these were more ornamental and
not really used as accessories. Even mojris (closed slippers) heavily
embroidered with gold and silver threads were worn by the royally and
the nobility.
Distinctive social
patterns and class systems existed even when it came to ordinary
footwear. Traditionally orthodox brahmin sensibilities were deeply
offended by the thought of using animal skin in any form. Even today
one is not permitted to carry into the inner precincts of a temple a
leather bag or slippers. The mochi, who patterned footwear was
considered to belong to the backward community and could not aspire
to use the very type of footwear he would fashion for the upper
classes. Interestingly enough the yogis who roamed the hills and
forests protected their feet by wearing wooden sandals.
For all the advances the
country has made, people in the countryside still do not wear
Slippers or carry a
purse. They cling to the old habit of having a cloth pouch, tucked
into the waist inside the dhoti or ghaghra. Dont be surprised
if you stumble across a woman dressed heavily n a Kanjeevaram saree
worth thousands of rupees with solid diamonds round her neck and ears
but not wearing slippers. She is most likely to be an orthodox south
Indian brahmin.
However, India has now
stepped into the field of accessories with tremendous success. The
market is flooded with a colourful range of shoes, ties, bags,
watchstraps, sunglasses etc. Indians who are today very well
travelled and aware of international fashions have begun to demand
and expect high quality goods. There has been an increase in
purchasing power, leading to the market being flooded with
interesting knick-knacks.
India has reached a stage
where it is successfully exporting coal to Newcastle. Enterprising
entrepreneurs like the owners of Metro Shoes are now designing shoes
for Ballys of Switzerland and Hushpuppys of America
to drop a few names. Zodiac is renowned for its exclusive ties that
are sold by high fashion shops in Europe. Indian scarves are eagerly
sought after for their fine silks and paisley patterns and sold even
at the prestigious Harrods in London. Shoes and scarves,
bags and belts made in India have found a market all over the world
today and this is no small achievement for a country that began
taking an interest in accessories only a couple of decades ago.
Splendid Shoes
The dark ages have gone.
Those favoured, dependable black and brown numbers have been more
than partially eclipsed by unbelievable, unbeatable new shades. The
myriad colours range from vibrant violets, brilliant blues, ravishing
reds, shimmering silvers and gleaming golds to delicate cool creams,
pretty pinks and lovely lavenders in styles that the bolder more
flamboyant and upbeat than ever before. You have them in vampish high
heels, fashionable wedges, comfortable flatties shoes,
slippers, sandals, sneakers and scholls in leather, plastic and
silks, in patterns and colours that mix and match or clash and
contrast for top fashion performance.
The shoemakers who are
most popular are the Metro father and son combine
Malik and Rafique Tejani. Their impressive Colaba Showroom in Bombay
has on display more than 1000 different varieties of footwear. In
keeping with the name they have opened hoe shops in all the metros in
India. In the words of Malik Tejani, owner of Metro Shoeshop, the
owners of Ballys shoes visited my shop here in Colaba and were
genuinely surprised and impressed that there existed such exclusive
shoe shops in India with such an outstanding range of styles. Nowhere
in the world do they have so many shops devoted to selling only
footwear, the shops abroad are normally tucked away in a corner of a
big departmental store. You have to remember that with a burgeoning
population of nearly 800 millions even if one per cent of these
bought shoes from my shop I am bound to be successful. A small corner
in a departmental store cannot possibly meet the increasing demands
of the growing upwardly mobile, highly fashion conscious crowd.
Earlier people bought themselves two pairs of footwear and replaced
them only after they completely wore off. Today almost every city
person picks shoes in styles and colours to match their clothes.
We even have
evening slippers and bags for little girls who insist on dressing
like their mothers. The shoe craze has snowballed so much that
recently I had this marwari bride who picked up 25 pairs of matching
footwear as part of her trousseau. Mr. Tejanis metro
shoeshop is a definite halt for all Indians visiting their country as
they cannot dream of buying such an exotic exquisite range, at such
unbelievably low prices. His shoes and sandals for women range from
Rs. 100/- for utility working shoes to Rs.500/- for evening shoes.
For men he has slip-ons ranging from Rs. 150/- to high quality
leather boots for Rs. 900/-. The shoes for children range from
Rs.50/- to Rs.300/-.
Beautiful Bags
If shoe freaks are
doubling and tripling so are the handbag enthusiasts. A shopping
spot unparalleled for 60 wallets, pouches, purses, portfolios,
briefcases, travelling bags and handbags is Dabboo Street f Mohamed
Ali Road in Bombay. Mohamed Ali Road as its name suggests giving it
a very Mohamedan flavour. The entire area sells everything from
sweetmeasts phirni and like sivain to clothes like the burkha and
topi that the muslim would need. Dabboo Street is again dominated by
Muslim traders who sell leather and leather goods. A good 25 shops in
this street specilize in selling only accessories from bags to belts
to jackets. Some of their products could well compare with Italian
goods- good imitations of Traussadi and Louis Vinition that could
pass of for the original. Kutab Bhai who own one of the more
fashionable shops, Sahiba, down Dabboo Street and also exports his
goods especially leather jackets for men and women says, awareness
among the customers has certainly increased. They follow
international market trends so we buy catalogues that feature bag
designs and reproduce the same style. Exposure to international trade
fairs and encouragement and policies of the Indian Government have
made it easy for us to import dies and machines and catch up with the
international fashion styles. Our finish is no longer faulty. Our
leather is now drum dyed helping maintain a permanent fast colour on
leather. Patchwork antique finish bags made from garment
leather waste is the latest introduction in the market. Also popular
are printed leather bags, embossed suedes and the flashy shiny
imported synthetic material. The basic trend has been to do away with
brass buckles and attachments as they tarnish fast. Hand woven
tassels and bows are more sought after. Besides the sling, the draw
string and the clutch bags what continues to be popular with the
working women are the organizer pattern utility bags with
compartments for visiting cards, identity cards, documents, keys
coins, currency, makeup etc.
The men seek the
two-in-once, double-decker briefcase which is really an overnight
case with briefcase that is detachable above. Bags and wallets that
come in all shapes, sizes, colours and patterns from the utility bag
to the evening bag, are available. Prices ranging from Rs. 100/- for
the little clutch coin pouch with frame to Rs. 600/- for a good
evening bag to Rs. 2000/- for the double-decker and jackets. Belts
with imported buckles and decoration fasteners that snap cleverly are
priced at Rs. 100/- to Rs. 200/-.
Terrific Ties and Silky Scarves
Ties are back in fashion.
People, more importantly young boys, want to look smart again doing
away with the scruffy so called casual look. The stifling weather
conditions have been overcome by the air-conditioned working
atmosphere. Ties though have alimited fashion range. They can only
change in width from an inch and a half pencil slim to 6 inches broad
making it look almost like a bib. Thankfully today it stands at a
reasonable eight , to eight and half centimetres. Zodiac, the
trendiest name in mens accessories has introduced the latest
range of ties called the king of kings. These ties in
jacquard polyester, feel and look like silk and are printed in old
traditional kashmiri patterns. Their ties range from the kings
style priced at Rs. 42/- to the king of kings Rs.
500/-. Ties in prints and patterns in rich colour and intricate
designs the perennially popular stripes, geometrical neat prints, and
the solid plains are all available at the Zodiac outlets. They were
also one of the first to introduce the cottonlon socks that is
cotton inside used as the natural fibre for hygiene and nylon
outside to give it stretchability. These socks continue to sell like
hot cakes. The market demands stretching far more than can be met.
Their a handkerchiefs, belts, wallets and silk scarves are priced to
suit all pockets all tastes and all occasions.
Just like the muffler,
the scarf too is worn on casual evenings. Indian women facny the
duppata, (a kind of scarf) that comes in chiffons, silks and cottons
crushed printed and embroidered. These duppatas are fashionably worn
around the waist of a skirt loosely knotted, they are even worn
around the neck, scarf fashion with jeans and shirt and of course the
traditional salwar kameez. It can also be turbaned around the head.
The duppata is so varied and versatile that there is a special magic
about this piece of apparel.
Accessible and inexpensive, the
pavements in the city offer an interesting variety of shoes, bags,
and duppatas, sunglasses, hairbands and clips and even socks that
would put some of the leading accessories shops in the shade. No
wonder then that these pavement splendours that are really super
bargains are the shoppers delight.
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