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Xerxes Bhathena has been creating dream outfits for the leading
stars of Indian cinema, bringing glamour to start wear with his
diamond and silk razzmatazz gowns.
For Xerxes Bhathena, the
high priest of fashion in the Indian film world, success fid not
exactly come on a silver platter. It was a slow hard climb up the
ladder starting at the very bottom as a sales man at Burlingtons
Fashion House way back in 1970 on a paltry Rs. 400/- per month.
Working with Andre Kapur, the brain behind Burlingtons and
Bhathena’s guru, helped him to imbibe the latest in fashion. And
soon the simple little Parsi boy from a middle class family was
designer-in-charge of Burlingtons’ Pret-a-Porter export
collection. And when he had enough of the export business he moved
on as buyer for the yet to materialize Burlingtons Mailing
Catalogue. “The e planning and research for this catalogue
which appeared only two years ago was started a decade ago, that’s
how far back things were planned in Burlingtons,” he recalls.
When Bhathena looked for
newer pastures in the designing world it was film land that
attracted him the most. But breaking into the very close knit film
community requires ingenuity of the highest order. “In 1980
with just 17 garments and with the help of fellow designer, Hemant
Trivedi, and model Audrey Casmiro, I offered to stage fashion shows
in star homes.” The first home was Shabana Azmi’s but
Bhathena’s glamorous outfits were not exactly right for her
image. “But she introduced me to Praveen Babi and the rest is
history,” recollects Bhathena nostalgically. Bhathena was Babi’s
personal costume designer and can be credited with bringing glamour
to star wear. Very often described as the Indian ‘Bob Macky’
who creates high impact garments for Hollywood stunners like Cher,
Bhathena’s entry into the glamour world was preceded by just
two designers – the very much in demand Mani Rababi and the
perfectionist Bhanu Athaya. But the former was saturated while the
latter had turned inaccessible and the current stars on the screen
like Zeenat Aman, Parveen Babi, Smita Patil etc., demanded trendy,
fashionable wear. “I am basically a glamour wear designer. Day
wear just doesn’t inspire me. So my clothes will obviously
appeal to filmstars.
Bhathena’s designs
for Babi in the film ‘Namak Halal’ were a rage and soon
every leading lady in town wanted him as her designer. Bhathena has
worked with every top heroine in the business. Right from Parveen
Babi, Smita Patil, Zeenat Aman, Dipti Naval, Dimple Kapadia,
Sridevi, Jaya Pradha to Madhuri, Anu Agarwal, Sonu Walia etc., and
created dazzling outfits for over 50 films. As a designer, Bhathena
is clear about his creations. “In the film world you design for
a character and at other times a fashion designer creates for a
person. There is a distinct difference between the two. In the
former, he is governed by the character the actress is playing, while
in the latter case, it is the personality of the actress that he
tried to emphasize.” The best figure he ahs so far dressed has
been Sarika’s, and two stars he would love to dress up are Rekha
and Padmini Kolhapure.
Bhathena’a
memorable films have been Sagar for Ramesh Sippy where he
dressed Dimple Kapadia as the beauteous Mona in those romantic
frilly, white dresses, Mr. India for Shekhar Kapur
where Sridevi got all the applause for her attire as well as her
acting and Sultanat for Mukul Anand.
With nearly 21 workers
and 50 embroiderers Bhathena can dream up a dress within hours as he
did for Jaya Pradha for Sharabi. “It was a fully
sequined creation that was ready just 14 hours.” Bhathena
travels for three months in the year seeking out new fabrics and
spends two months visiting Bangalore and Varanasi creating special
silks and brocades.
“I don’t design
revealing clothes. My women are draped in yards of flowing fabric
that creates an aura of mystery around them.” A Bhathena
creation cannot be totally categorized into a particular segment. “It
is fusion of the East and West. A cross between a lounge dress and
salwar kameez.” Since 1986 Bhathena has moved into the export
market creating once-of-a kind garment s for his outlets in London,
Vancouver, San Francisco and Singapore where prestigious stores
displays his outfits exclusively.
He is more choosy about
the films he designs for now and, instead of jetting around the
country delivering garments in 24 hours, he prefers to concentrate on
his exclusive collections which he designs four times a year. “I
now take only outstanding scenes and leave the rest of the film for
the others. Today fashion has progressed so fast that a start with
any dress sense can put a wardrobe together from boutiques if she
wants.”
Bhathena is at his
creative best when he is designing western wear. “No business
suits though, please,” he admits, honestly. “I am a
diamond and silk razzmatazz buff. I make sexy garments but not to
expose because Indian actresses don’t have sexy figures like
Cher has. And the only Indian actress who did have one, was Sarika
and she didn’t even know it.”
Bhathena’s
collections normally comprise 200 garments each. In San Francisco,
‘Shaukeen’ is Bhathena’s exclusive outlet. In London,
it is ‘Variety Silk House’. In Toronto he sells very
up-market creations that have beaded embroidery. In Vancouver it is
Pret items yet they are one-of-a-kind. For the Middle East there
are loads of silks and brocades. Bhathena admits his clientele
comprises the NRI abroad and not the regular westerner. Bhathena’s
creations have been shown at shows in the Middle East, USA and UK.
“My creations are perennial and are not restricted to any
season. One can’t talk of a spring or winter collection in
India, which is a land of eternal summer,” he laughs. Obviously,
Bhathena’s fame as a star designer has drawn aspiring fashion
creators to move into the tinsel world and as he acknowledge “There
is room for new talent all the time. With Indians making over 500
films every year even at the peak of my career I could only handle
50 films every year even at the peak of my career I could only handle
50 films a year. But if starry-eyed designers think that tinsel
town is where they will make their millions, Bhathena adds
discouragingly, “If one charges Rs. 20,000/- for a dress the
cost is often Rs. 15,000/- and one would be lucky if the balance is
ever paid.”
Having such a formidable
fashion background Bhathena is often asked why he hasn’t moved
into the fast moving ad-world where his glamorous creations would be
a rage. “I did create the costume for the ‘Puf’
ad-film but advertising does not appeal to me. I can’t take
the dictates of an art director. No doubt ladies, wear is Bhathena’s
forte but some of the actors have also worn his creations.
Kamalhasan, Karan Kapoor, Deepak Parashar were the chosen few. “But
I don’t enjoy creating men’s wear.”
Bhathena’s emphasis
on his embroidery is normally inspired by the fabric he works with.
His designs are more fabric-oriented. “I see the fabric and then
plan the style.” His use of zardozi, machine embroidery in gold,
silver and copper is very often on vibrant shades. But he loves the
stark simplicity and drama of black and white. Bhathena’s sizing
of a readymade garment is very accurate enabling an average figure
to slip into it without any alterations. Another area of fashion
designing that Bhathena is known for is bridal trousseaux. Planning
the complete look along with accessories, make/hairstyling etc. is
what Bhathena enjoys doing. Creating flamboyant avant garde creations
is the world of Xerxes Bhathena and it is something he is not ever
going to give up as he stubbornly adds, “I’ll never give
up designing for the stars and beautiful women. I love it too
much!”
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