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From the early
Buddhist and Jain periods through to the Mughal, Maratha and British
eras, the region of Maharashtra has witnessed the rule of a long
procession of rulers – each leaving his or her imprints in the
form of secular and religious architectural wonders.
The many rock cut
Jain-Buddhist caves and the scores of ports along the western coast
stand testimony to the glory of the legendary Hindu revivalists –
founders of the Maratha and Peshwa dynasties who challenged the great
Mughal Empire and later the British, until their defeat in 1818.
A logical sequence in
exploring the architectural heritage of Maharashtra would be fair
only if we started at the earliest existing remains – available
examples of which are the Rock Cut Caves. All these have several
distinct design elements. The Buddhist caves, which are the older
ones, are either chaityas (temples) or `viharas
(monasteries). The Chaityas are narrow and deep with a stupa at one
end of the cave. A row of columns runs on either side within the cave
and around the stupa. Viharas, or the monks’ residential
quarters were generally composed of rows of cells along both sides of
the cave. A small shrine containing an image of Buddha was found at
the rear end.
Amongst Rock Cut
Architecture – the Ajanta Caves, which were excavated and
painted by Buddhist monks, are amongst the oldest and date back to
200 BC-600 A.D. Thirty in number and decorated with remarkable
murals, they are regarded universally as India’s artistic
treasures. Though the paintings in these caves are referred to as
frescoes, the technique essentially is tempera. Technically a fresco
is painted on a wet surface where the colour is absorbed into the
surface. These, however, have been painted on a dry surface. The
rough rock walls were coated with a centimeter thick layer of clay
and cow dung mixed with rice husk. A final coat of lime was then
applied to produce the finished surface on which the artist painted.
The finest and the most
famous paintings are found in caves 1,2,16,17 and 19. The magnificent
depiction of the Bodhisattvas (potential Buddhas who out of
compassion renounce the attainment of Buddha-hood). Avlokitesvara and
Padmapani in cave 1, are particularly well known. The Padmapani image
of Buddha – holding the lotus and standing besides his consort –
is another famous image. Other famous paintings include the depiction
of Buddha’s life and the cameo of a woman and her toilet.
For unknown reasons
Ajanta was abandoned in the 7th century, when the artists
moved to Ellora, 66 kilometres away. The Ellora cave temples are
caved out of a wall side and stretch for about two kilometres from
north to south. There are 34 temples in all of these out of which
only 12 are Buddhist (Viharas) though even these incorporate Hindu
and Jain themes, demonstrating the declining phase of Buddhism. In
1990 the Survey of India announced the discovery of 28 additional
caves in the upper hills. Dating possibly from 9th to the
13th century, the vases contain Hindu sculptures.
These are extremely
impressive, with the Kailash Temple (cave 16) having a volume twice
that of the Parthenon. Approximately 200,000 tonnes of rock was
excavated for the construction of what is possibly the world’s
largest monolithic structure. Working downwards the craftsmen first
chiseled the roof out of the rock and then worked on the interiors,
leaving pillars that were decorative rather than functional.
Representing Shiva’s Himalayan home, the Kailash Temple is
exquisitely sculpted with scenes from Hindu mythology. Each is
pulsating with drama, energy, passion and vitality. The other notable
caves are 14 (Rava Kakhi), cave 15 (Das Avtara), cave 21 (Ramesvara)
and cave 29 (Dumar). There are five Jain caves which though
not as spectacular as the Hindu caves are still worthwhile to see.
Aurangabad is the
base to get to Ajanta and Ellora. Aurangabad itself had an important
role in history. Named after the Mughal Emperor Aurangazeb, it was
once the centre of power now recalled by several Muslim structures of
which Bibi ka Makbara (Tomb of Aurangzeb’s wife, built by
her son) is popularly known as the poor man’s Taj Mahal and is
an ungainly replica of the original. There is also Daulatabad
Fort just outside the city, built by Muhammad-bin-Tughlaq as an
alternative capital to Delhi. His plan to shift the capital wasn’t
successful, however, as thousands died on the long march to the new
site. While climbing on to the fort one passes a complicated series
of defenses including multiple doorways, which elephants could not
destroy. These are also spike studded in case the elephants ever
attacked. A magnificent tower of victory, the Chand Minar,
soars 60 metres high. It was built in 1435 and Qutab Minar in Delhi
beats it only by 5 metres. Higher up is the blue tiled Chini mahal
Palace where the last king of Golconda was imprisoned for 13
years until his death.
Only three kilometres
from Ellora is a holy shrine for the Deccan Muslims where the Mughal
Emperor Aurangzeb was buried when he died in 1707. The Emperors built
a battlement around what is now a sleepy little village. His final
resting place is a simple courtyard in the Alamgir Dargah.
Aurangzeb’s pious austerity extended even to his own tomb, which
was paid for by the money he earned himself by copying out the Koran.
Between the capital
Bombay and Aurangabad lies the capital of the Maratha empire –
Pune. It became the Peshwa capital and was taken over by the
British in 1817. The Shahwarwada Palace stands as a legacy of
the Peshwas. Built in 1736 it was run down in 1827. Today, what
remains are scenic gardens and little signs proclaiming what once
stood there. Pune also has its share of rock cut architecture in form
of the rock cut Panchaleshwar Temple, a small 8th
century temple similar in style to the grand Ellora caves. Twenty
five kilometres south-west of Pune is located the Simhagad
(lion fort) Fort. It stands atop a 1270 metre hill. In the series of
forts, 24 kilometres from Mahabaleshwar stands the Pratapgarh Fort
– built in 1656 and 500 steps away from the Mahabaleshwar city.
The legend behind the fort is connected with one of the more notable
feats in Shivaji’s dramatic life. Raigadh, Torna, Purandhar
and Shivneri are other Maratha forts worth a visit.
On the way to Pune from
Bombay are the famous towns of Lonavla and Khandala. Twelve
kilometres from Lonavla – located high on a hill side – is
the famous Hinayana Buddhist cave of Karla. Completed I the 8th
century BC, it is perhaps one of the best preserved cave temples of
its kind. A carved ‘Sun Window’ allows light to filter
through, towards the small stupa at the other end of the narrow cave,
giving the space a mystic quality. Delicately carved columns add to
the sculptural setting. The pillar topped by four back-to-back lions
– an image associated with Ashoka and now the symbol of
sovereign India – stands outside the cave. There are some small
Viharas around, some of these were later converted into Hindu
shrines. Further of from karla, are the twelve Bhaja Caves
which date back to 200 BC. A Chaitya, similar to Karla, is the most
important among these. South of this is a unique group of 14 stupas
of which five are inside the cave and nine are outside. Along this
direction six kilometres south-east of Kamshet station are the Behsa
Caves newer than the Karla cave. At one time the roof of the main
cave was probably painted. There are a number of old forts in the
vicinity including the hill top fort, six kilometre from Lohagen
Malavli which was taken twice by Shivaji, and lost again on each
occasion. Above the Bhaja caves is the Visapur Fort. Another
important city of the Maratha empire was Kolhapur, which was
the capital of an important Maratha state. The old palace of Kolhapur
contains some interesting items including a collection of swords. One
of Kolhapur’s Maharaja’s died in Italy and was cremated on
the banks of the river Arno where his chatri (Cenotaph) now
stands.
Ratnagiri on the coast
130 kilometres west, was the place where ‘Thibaw’ the last
Burmese king was interned by the British here from 1886 until his
dezath in 1916. Panhala and Pawangarh are interesting
hill stations. At Panhala there is a fort dating back to 1192 when
Raja Bhoj II had held sway over it. Some Buddhist caves, temples and
the Panvla caves are also located around this area.
Located north-east of
Aurangabad is the interesting small town of Nasik with its
picturesque bathing ghats. Nasik stands on the Godavari river, one of
the holiest in the Godavari river, one of the holiest in the Deccan.
Like Ujjain, this is the site for the triennial Kumbh Mela which
comes here after every 12 years. The Site-Gupha (cave) is
linked to a legend since it was from here that Ravana the evil kin of
Lanka carried Sita away. Also, nearby is a grove of large banyan
trees in which is the house of the panchavati family. The Kapaleswar
Temple upstream is said to be the oldest in the town.
About eight kilometres
south-west of Nasik, close to the Bombay road are the 21 Hinayana
Buddhist caves of Pandu Lena. They date from 1st
century BC to the 2nd century AD. Great similarity exists
between these and the Karla caves. The most interesting are caves 3,
10 and 18. Cave 3 is a large vihara with some interesting sculptures.
Cave 10 is also a vihara. Cave 18 is a chaitya, with a sculpted
elaborate façade.
The Buddhists followed by
the Jains, Marathas and Peshwas and then the Mughals all left
significant symbols of their presence. Then came the British who’s
main area of influence was Bombay, the capital of Maharashtra.
Bombay – Relics of The Raj
Perhaps the place to
begin exploring Bombay’s colonial legacy is the Gateway of
India. Built to commemorate the royal visit of George Vand Queen Mary
in 1911 (completed in 1924), the Gateway is a combination of European
and Indian ceremonial architecture. The last British troops marched
out through this gate when India became independent in 1947. Today it
is a favourite haunt of tourists. The Taj Mahal Hotel opposite the
Gateway is an important landmark. It was built in 1903 by Jamshethji
N. Tata, founder of a prestigious industrial house, to counter a ban
on Indians entering the then famous Watson’s hostelry. Many
evocative Victorian Gothic buildings can be seen in Fort area, the
central business and administrative area, named after the Old Fort of
Bombay which was demolished in the sixties. Particularly interesting,
close to the Gateway, is the Council Hall, once the Sailor’s
Home, which stands in Byzantine gradeur on the site of Bombay’s
first British cemetery. The Prince of Wales Museum, across the road,
commemorates George V’s first visit to India in 1905. A fine
example of Indo-Saracenic architecture, it houses excellent
collections of Indian sculpture, miniature paintings, Nepali and
Tibetan art. There is also a natural history gallery.
Flora Fountain, at the
commercial heart of Bombay, was erected in honour of Sir Bartle
Frere, Governor of Bombay during the period of dramatic growth
(1862-7). Among other important landmarks are the extravagant
Victoria Terminus (VT) and the Municipal Corporation Building
opposite, both designed by Stevens. East of Flora Fountain, the
simpler St. Thomas’ Cathedral which was once visible from the
sea is now surrounded by tall buildings. The classical façade
of the old Town Hall (1833) nearby now houses the Asiatic Society
with its marvelous library and statues of forgotten times. A similar
façade close by belongs to the Mint, built in 1829. Still
further east is Ballard Estate with office buildings strongly
reminiscent of 19th century London, as is much of Bombay.
The University with its Central Clock Tower, the Old Secretariat, the
High Court, the PWD (Public Works) Office and the Central Telegraph
Office are all at the western end of the old Fort.
For Bombay off the beaten
track, head for the southern tip of the island, where tree-lined
avenues and a pervasive sense of order characterize the modern
military and naval enclave built on the remains of a traditional
British cantonment. Most relaxing after the hectic activity of the
city, the Afghan Memorial Church was established here in 1847 and
later consecrated to the memory of those who lost their lives in the
Afghan Wars. A Koli fishing village still survives along the shore
towards the end of Cuffe Parade. Wooden boats come in with the day’s
catch, and the fisherwomen, their saris tucked between their legs in
Maharashtrian style, take it to market. A dawn visit to Sassoon dock,
now a fishing harbour and fish market, can be a colourful olfactory
experience.
The bazaars north of
Victoria Terminus are an exciting medley of colour and sound. There
is Crawford Market, which sells almost everything; Mohatta Market,
the mammoth cloth market; the famous Chor Bazaar, ‘thieves
market’, where Victorian jostles for place with Indian
‘antiques’; and Lal Bazaar. Marine Drive, Bombay’s
most famous boulevard, curves gracefully along Back Bay on land
reclaimed in 1920. It is particularly spectacular at night, when its
along string of street lights is likened to a sparkling necklace.
Towards evening it is a popular promenade. Chowpatty Beach to the
north also comes to life in the evening.
The Hanging Gardens and
Kamla Nehru Park at the crest of Malabar Hill are pleasant spots, the
latter offering a panoramic view of south and central Bombay and, by
night, the ‘Queen’s Necklace’ along Marine Drive.
Bombay’s many places
of worship reflect its cultural diversity. Among the Roman Catholic
churches in the city, St. Michael’s at Mahim and the famous
shrine of Mount Mary at Bandra are particularly well known. The 500
year old Haji Ali Mosque on a tidal island near the Mahalaxmi
Racecourse attracts numerous worshippers. Hindu temples include the
thousand-year-old Walkeshwar Babul Nath dedicated to Krishna,
Mahalakshmi dedicated to the goddess of wealth, and Mumba Devi
honouring the goddess after whom Bombay is named. Several temples
also cluster around the Ban Ganga tank at the foot of Malabar Hill,
creating an unusual ambience. There are Zoroastrian fire temples all
over the city, and on Malabar Hill are the Towers of Silence where
the Paris dead are exposed to the elements and the vultures so as to
ensure that sacred earth and fire and not polluted. No visitors are
allowed.
Destinations Around Bombay
The beach of Juhu, 18
kilometres north of the city centre, is the nearest to the city.
Marve and Madh, about forty kilometres away are secluded. A small
fishing village near Marve and the remains of an Old Portuguese
Church at Madh are main attractions. Manori and Gorai also have
lovely beaches. The fishing village at Gorai and its splendid
Portuguese Church are worth a visit. The beaches at Kihim, Nagaon and
Murud with its island fort can be reached by a combination of ferry
and bus.
Krishnagiri Upavan
National park, which is forty kilometres from the city, has
reservoirs, a Lion ‘Safari Park, Film City and the ancient
Kanheri Caves established by Buddhist monks in the 2nd
century BC. The Great Chaitya Cave, with its long colonnade and
magnificent statues of the Buddha, justifies the climb. The elaborate
water supply and disposal system is also interesting.
The rock-cut Hindu
Temples at Elaphanta, an island about ten kilometres across
the harbour, provide an exciting glimpse of Indian sculpture dating
back to about 600 AD. Huge panels depict episodes relating to Lord
Shiva, each executed with power, grace and an amazing sense of
proportions. The central sculpture represents his three aspects as
‘Creator’ ‘Preserver’ and ‘Destroyer’.
Pleasant walks along forested slopes with spectacular views,
especially of the new harbour on the mainland, are a delightful
bonus.
The state of Maharashtra
covers architecture from almost and advent of mankind to the present
day offering perhaps one of the widest cross-section in topology and
style.
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