Dwarka in Gujarat is deeply interfaced with Hindu
mythology and can only be appreciated by those who are well versed in
the traditions. Excavations have established that, consistent with
legends, modern day Dwarka is the sixth settlement of the same name,
its predecessors having been swallowed by the sea.
The most important spot
on the Saurashtra coast at the point where the Gomti river meets the
great Arabian Sea lies Dwarka. Known in almost every home throughout
the length and breadth of India it was here, according to legend,
that Lord Krishna ruled.
Today, Dwarka is still an
important pilgrimage centre. According to legend, Lord Krishna,
after slaying the mighty Kansa, left his abode at Mathura and
traveled with the entire Yadav community of Mathura to the coast of
Saurashtra where he founded his kingdom. It is said that the gods
sent various gifts. Indra presented an assembly hall called
Sudharama, Varun gifted horses that could run as fast as the wind,
Kuber gave immense wealth to fill the coffers of Dwarkadhish very
aptly known then as Swarandwarika Golden Dwarka.
The historic connection
with Lord Krishna finds as its focus the Dwarkadhish templeone
of the most impressive Hindu shrines in the state. Its sanctum, the
Jag Mandir, is said to be 2,500 years old. Its richly carved facing
hall is supported by as many as 60 columns and the temple rises five
storeys high, the tip of its exquisitely carved conical spire
stabbing the sky at 157 feet.
With its rich religious
association it is natural that Dwarka should have a multitude of
temples, large and small, many associated with Puranic legends. One
of the most popular with pilgrims is the temple of Rukmini, Lord
Krishnas wife believed to be an incarnation of Lakshmi, the
goddess of wealth. Then there is the township of Bet Dwarka 32
kilometres from Dwarka known today as Shankoddar island. This island
is supposed to be the place where Lord Krishna and his family lived.
Pilgrims are ferried to and fro to the island in boats manned by
boatmen who claim a long lineage. Near the island is the ancient Gopi
Lake and further ahead lies Dwarikavan or the forest of Dwarka. In
the forest is located the famous Naagnath (Shiva) temple. It is
recorded in the Puranas (ancient texts) that 12 jyotirlingas
or columns of light representing Lord Shiva manifested themselves in
different parts of the country. The jyotirlinga enshrined in the
temple of Naagnath is known as Nageshwar Mahadev and attracts
thousands of pilgrims all throughout the year.
In addition to its
temples, its legends and its fame as the town founded by Lord
Krishna, Dwarka is also sanctified as the seat of Adi Shankaracharya
who established the four seats (mathas) in four different
directions in the country. Research work in Sanskrit is carried on
at the Shankaracharyas seat known as Sharad Peetha.
The name Dwarika means
gateway and, historically, Dwarka the gateway to the rich
coastal hinterland of Saurashtra. Trading ships from Assyria, Italy,
Iran and Arabia once called at Dwarka. Today, trucks trundle towards
Dwarka to carry away salt and soda ash and fertilizers from the Tata
Chemical factory. But pilgrims care little about modernity in
Dwarka. For them what matters is the past of Dwarka with its
colourful legends and splendid temples with a wealth of anecdotes
threading them to ancient times. Together, the temples, the legends,
the history of Dwarkathe township of Lord Krishnaprovide
a golden link with eternity.
OTHER PLACES OF PILGRIMAGE
Bhalka Tirth: the
spot where Lord Krishna was mistaken for a deer and struck by a arrow
hile sleeping in a deerskin. It is said Lord Krishna was cremated at
Dehotsarga at Triveni Ghat.
Closeby lies somnath
with its shrine built by Soma, the Moon God. The Majestic monument as
it stands today is a recent replication of the earlier construction.
It is said that the original temple built by the Moon God was of
gold. After it was razed to the ground it was rebuilt by Ravana in
silver. When the silver temple was knocked down it was reconstructed
in wood by Krishna and when this was pulled down an edifice of stone
was erected by Bhimdev. Relics of the old Somnath shrine have been
preserved in a museum housed in a temple. An interesting Sun Temple
is also located in Somnath. Somnath is also one of the 12
jyotirlingas or Shiva shrines in India.
In the green depths of
the Gir forestthe last abode of the majestic Asiatic lionthere
is an enchanting spot called Tulshyam. There is a temple
dedicated to Bhim and his mother Kunti along with hot springs.
At Champaner, 48
kilometres from Vadodara, rises the legendary hill of Pavagadh.
The literal meaning of Pavagadh is Quarter of a Hill so called
because, according to legend, this hill was once a portion of the
Himalayan mountain which Hanuman the monkey god carried to Lanka to
save Laxman. The city of Champaner also boasts of the Jami
Masjidone of the finest mosques in Gujarat.
Palitana at the
foot of the Shatrunjaya Hill (place of victory) has 863 magnificent
marble spired temples rising in serried steps from its base to the
very top. The temples were built over a span of 900 years through
successive generations of pilgrims. It is one of the most scared
sites for Jains. Another Jain centre is Girnar Hill which
overlooks Junagadh. Like Palitana it is studded with temples. Ten
thousand steps form part of the 600 metre climb to the top where lies
the temple of Amba Mata where newly weds pray for marital happiness.
Modhera, 105
kilometres from Ahmedabad, stands an exquisite temple dedicated to
the sun. The Modhera sun Temple built in 1026-1027 has been designed
to allow the first rays of the sun to shine at the time of the
equinoxes on the image of Surya, the Sun God. Though partially
ruined, the temple retains its earlier glory.
Dakor is a temple
dedicated to Lord Krishna. The striking image of Lord Krishna in the
temple of Ranchondrai is believed to belong to the golden period of
Dwarka. It is said that a devotee brought this image from Dwarka and
installed it in Dakor. On a silvery night of the full moon (sharad
purnima) in October-November, a fair which attracts thousands of
pilgrims is held in the temple compound.
At Shamlaji stands
an exquisitely sculpted Vaishnava temple. More than 800 years old,
the archaeologically noteworthy temple hosts a colourful fair on the
full moon day in November-December.
Lord Krishna and Rukmini
got married, it is believed, at the temple of Madhavpur. On
the ninth day of the bright half in March-April, a large fair replete
with colourful folk ceremonies recreate the joyous event to celebrate
the marriage of the divine couple.
Amongst the most popular
places of pilgrimage in Gujarat is ambaji dedicated to the
worship of Shakti.
SERVICES GUIDE
PALITANA
By Air: Bhavnagar,
the nearest airport lies at a distance of 60 kilometres from
Palitana.
By Rail: A metre
gauge line connects palitana to Sihor, and then on to Ahmedabad, a
total distance of 275 kilometres.
By Road: State
Transport buses, private buses and taxis and conducted tours connect
Palitana to Bhavnagar and other important places in Gujarat.
Where to Stay:
Toran Hotel, Sumru, Hotel Shravak and a number of dharamshalas
provide comfortable accommodation.
SOMNATH AND BHALKA TIRTH
By Air: The
nearest airport is at Keshod, 49 kilometres away.
By Rail: The
nearest railhead is Veraval, a mere 5 kilometres away.
By Road: State
Transport buses, private buses and taxis ply to and from Somnath from
other towns.
TULSISHYAM
By Road:
Tulshishyam entails a 170 kilometre drive from Junagadh.
Where to Stay:
There is a comfortable Toran Bungalow at Tulsishyam.
CHAMPANER
By Air: Vadodara,
48 kilometres away, is the nearest airport.
By Rail: Vadodara,
100 kilometres from Ahmedabad, is well connected by rail to other
centres.
By Bus: State
Transport buses and private buses and taxis run between Vadodara and
Champaner and other places.
Where to Stay: The
Hotel Chmpaner provides accommodation to those who wish to make an
overnight halt at Champaner. Vadodara serves as a good base with a
range of accommodation from which to choose.
MADHERA
Modhera is 105 kilometres
from Ahmedabad.
By Air: The most
convenient airport is at Ahmedabad.
By Rail: The
nearest railhead is at Mehsana, 35 kilometres from Modhera. Buses
ply from here to Modhera.
By Road: Direct
State Transport buses, conducted tours, private buses and taxis run
from Ahmedabad to Modhera.
DWARKA
By Air: Jamnagar,
145 kilometres away, is the nearest airport.
By Rail: Dwarka is
on the Western Railway line.
By Road: State
Transport buses, private buses and taxis and conducted tours run to
Dwarka.
Where to Stay:
Toran Tourist Bungalowa state run enterprise, and a number of
Dharamshalas provide reasonable, neat and clean accommodation at
Dwarka.
DAKOR
By Air: Baroda, 80
kilometres away, is the nearest airport. Ahmedabad is 90 kilometres
from Dakor.
By Rail: Dakor is
accessible by rail.
By Road: State
transport buses, private buses and taxis and conducted tours connect
Dakor to other centres.
Where to Stay:
Dharamshalas and Government Guest Houses provide fairly comfortable
SHAMLAJI
By Air: Ahmedabad
is the nearest airport.
By Rail: A railway
line links Shamlaji to other centres.
By Road: State
Transport buses, private buses and taxis and conducted tours run from
other centres to Shamlaji.
MADHAVPUR
By Air: Porbhander,
60 kilometres away or Keshod, 40 kilometres from junagadh are
convenient airports.
By Rail: Madavpur
can easily be reached from the Porbander railway station.
By Road: State
Transport buses, private buses and taxis, conducted tours connect
Madhavpur to other centres.
Where to Stay:
Both Chorwad and Porbander are convenient bases for visiting
Madhavpur.
AMBAJI
Am baji is 200 kilometres
from Ahmedabad. State Transport buses, private buses and conducted
tours can be taken to Ambaji.
|