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Jageshwar In Search of Shiva
Set amidst a tranquil and serene atmosphere, are
nearly 200 temples built in hours of Shiva Mahadeva. Considered to
represent one of the 12 Jyotirlingas in India, Jageshwar attracts
thousands of devotees during Shivaratri very year.
After traveling through
Himachal Pradesh, I decided to visit the Uttar Pradesh hills which
are as fascinating as those of Himachal. Also similar is the
remarkable temple architectural heritage. This was my purpose of
visit-to establish affinities between the temple architectural styles
of the two states.
Like numerous early stone
temples of Himachal Pradesh, those built in the hilly tracks of Uttar
Pradesh in the post-Gupta and medieval periods are unknown. Much less
is known about their origins and history which is, no doubt, closely
linked with the rise and fall or royal dynasties. All stone temples
were commissioned by the royal patrons who wished to earn merit for
themselves through this pious act. In very few cases, wealthy
merchants got a temple constructed or renovated.
Recently I visited the
little known town of Jageshwar situated about 34 kilometres from
Almora town on the way to Pithoragarh and Naini. I got down from the
bus at Aartola which is three kilometers away from Jageshwar, and
decided to walk as I found myself amidst a very tranquil and serene
atmosphere. The natural loneliness of the setting is enhanced by the
tall deciduous deodar trees standing erect like silent sentinels with
outstretched branches as though in protection. A serpentine river
called Jata Ganga winds its way below the green forested mountain
sloped and by the side of the flat space containing the temple
complex. After covering about one and a half kilometers, I found
myself in front of a gigantic temples structure known as Dandeshwar
temple, dedicated to one of the aspects of Lord Shiva surrounded by
some mini shrines. There is no image inside the sanctum sanctorum,
but facing this temple is a small temple with a shivalinga. After a
brief halt here, I proceeded on towards the tiny Jageshwar village
and found a few small wayside shrines in ruin.
During the 4th
and 5th centuries A.D., when the Gupta emperors held sway
over a vast tract of northern and central India, the Kumaon hills
were being goverened by an independent dynasty of Katyur kings. They
are credited with having selected this site for building temples. The
temples originally constructed during the Gupta period were renovated
by the rulers of the Ghand dynasty that overthrew the Katyuris in the
7th century A.D. Numerous temple were constructed or
restored during the Gurjara Pratihara era and also in the 15th
and 16th centuries A.D.
The continuous chain of
snowcapped mountain ranges looms large over this beautiful temple
site where hushed silence reigns supreme and not a leaf rustles, as
though afraid to disturb the stillness. This is a sacred site where
nearly two hundred stone temples were built in honour of Shiva
Mahadeva. The mighty force of the cosmic dance begins to work on our
minds when we visit one temple after another. Most of them are
dedicated to Shiva; he is addressed by diverse names. Jageshwara is
only a corruption of Yogisvara (Lord of Yogis), Dandeshavara,
Nilakantheshvara, Mahamrityunjaya, etc. These together with other
temples dedicated to Surya, the Sun God, Navadurga (nine
manifestations of the great goddess Durga), Kalika, Pushtidevi,
Kubera etc. inform us that their builders professional Shivism,
especially the Lakulish sect. Jageshwar is locally considered to
represent one of the twelve Jyotirlingas in India, where thousands of
Shiva devotees come to offer prayers during Shivratri, every year.
Of the numerous stone
temples in this group, the Mahamrityunjaya temple seems to be the
oldest dated approximately the 8th century A.D., while the
others mentioned above including a few minor ones belong to the
subsequent centuries. The temples of Surya, Navagraha and
Neelkantheshvara are of late Katyuri age. It is said that originally
four hundred temples existed here of which only about one hundred and
eight have survived. Time and vandalism have destroyed the rest.
The temples belong to the
simple Nagara style variety-a tall curvilinear spire sikhara
surmounted by an amalaka (capstone) and a kalasha crown
the square sanctum sanctorum, entrance to which is through a carved
doorway. Most of the temples enshrine a stone lingam. Impressive
stone images are seen around the altar. Two ashtadhatu(an
alloy of eight metals) images are really superb. Particularly
mentioned may also be made of a highly impressive image of Ganesha.
The Ekamukhalinga is one
of the rarest specimens in northern India. The two lifesized
dwarapalas (door guardians) outside the Jagannath temple are
another attraction but one of them is badly mutilated which can be
repaired, but the authorities seem reluctant to preserve them,
despite the fact that all these great monuments are declared
protected by the Archaeological Survey of India.
The local villagers told
me that about 20 years ago, one of the three metal statues was stolen
from these temples, but fortunately it was recovered. After this
incident, the Archaeological Survey of India woke up to the need of
preserving these images, but the steps taken were not completely
effective. The images lying scattered in the temples were collected
and stored in the sanctum sanctorum of a small temple and its door
was locked.
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